A prehung door is a door slab that is already hung by hinges onto a three-sided door frame. You'll want to install a prehung door for new-construction projects where the doorframe is open to the studs. You will also want to use prehung units for extensive room remodels that require drywall and door framing to be removed and later rebuilt. Exterior door installation benefits from prehung units since prehung doors tightly fit into their frames.
A prehung door helps the user avoid building out a door frame from scratch—which includes some complicated tasks such as mortising hinges and drilling the door for the door knob. The rough door opening should have no doorframe.
Casing, jambs, doorstops, and all elements of a doorframe should not be in place or should be removed. The prehung door will install directly against the two-by-fours on the sides and on the top the header. The rough door opening should always be taller and wider than the height and width of the prehung door unit. This gap is usually 0. While installing a prehung door is easier than building a doorframe from scratch, installation is still a bit trickier than simply inserting the door unit and nailing it into place.
Use these tips to make the job go smoother:. Acclimate the door in the work area for about 24 hours prior to installation. Lean the door unit against a wall or otherwise keep it vertical. Do not store the door flat. Check the door for signs of damage. Make sure that the door is hanging square and true inside the door frame. Verify that the door is correctly handed for your needs, whether left or right. Handing refers to the door's swing direction. Right-handed doors open to the right and left-handed doors open to the left.
The rough door opening should be correctly built for prehung door installation:. The sides of the door frame jambs may need to be trimmed to allow for the height of the flooring. If the floor is unfinished, generally estimate 2 inches from the top of the unfinished floor to the bottom of the door. Door units can be hazardous in the dry-fit stage when they are on edge but still not attached to the house. Make sure that one person always has a hand on the door. With the prybar, remove the door's inner casing trim.
Use the tape measure to measure the height of the door's rough opening. Measure both the left and the right sides. Measure the width at the top, middle, and bottom. Note these measurements for ordering the door. Run the tape measure diagonally from the top-left down to the bottom-right. Similarly, run it in the other direction top-right to bottom-left. If both measurements are the same, the door opening is square.
With the bubble level, make sure that the vertical sides are plumb and that the header top and threshold floor are level. Purchase the door before removing the existing door. All pre-hung doors come with specific handing: either left- or right-handed.
The door swing direction cannot be reversed, so be sure to buy a door with the correct handing. To find the door's handing, stand facing the door on the outside of the house. If the hinges are on the left side of the door frame, this is a left-handed door. If the hinges are on the right side, buy a right-handed door. With the pry bar, remove exterior trim and any insulation tucked into the spaces around the door.
With a cordless drill, remove the existing door from the hinges. Remove the hinges from the door jamb. Unscrew the existing door sill. Use the reciprocating saw to cut any nails that might be holding the existing door frame to the studs on each side. Place the door unit in the opening and center it. By measuring, make sure that the door, when swung open, will clear the top of the finished floor inside the house. Test the door sill for level. Do not open the door, as it may tip out of balance and fall.
Keep the restraining shipment brackets in place for now. The new door's exterior trim, which typically comes pre-attached to the door unit, may fit perfectly into place where the previous molding had been. If not, use a pencil to trace on the siding around the molding. If necessary, use an oscillating multi-tool to cut the pencil outline that you made on the siding. Remove the waste material. With the assistant, remove the door unit and set it aside safely.
Piece together the three sections of sill pan in the door frame. Two pieces should be at each side, with the third piece in the middle. Caulk the three pieces of sill pan together, then let the caulk harden. Set the assembled sill pan aside. Add three parallel beads of caulk to the floor. Set the sill pan in it. Caulk the back and the seams of the sill pan. Add caulk to the back of the door's pre-attached outside trim. When you set out to install a prehung door, begin by measuring the rough opening into which you are placing it.
The opening should be one or two inches larger than the door itself. That wiggle room enables you to shim the door , bringing it to the level-and-plumb position critical to proper functioning. Set the door into the rough opening.
Has flooring not yet been installed beyond the threshold? Next, make sure the hinge side of the door is plumb, meaning perfectly vertical. Having checked that the door is still centered within the opening, stabilize it by adding shims to both sides, near the top. Check the alignment using a level.
Go on to place shims in a few more positions along the hinge side; check level once more; then nail through the jamb wherever you shimmed. Close the door and confirm that its top portion is level.
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