In fact, if you get a really hot oval setup, you can usually get it to work on almost any other oval track with very minor changes. I would say it is true to some extent.
If your Richmond setup is good, the chances are your tire pressures are going to be too high for Stafford. To get the most out of it, you are probably going to have to change a few other things besides fuel and gear.
Thanks Jeff!!! You are awesome!! I run the Back of the Pack league and we are running Late Models. Think of it as a safe haven training ground. We have about 50 members, but around 22 active every week. We race the iRacing track one week before they do to prepare like your league. It has actually resulted in official wins for some of our drivers.
You should come by sometimes and give us a setup class….. Thanks again for everything. The best setup class I found was the Gary Hensley setup videos in the iRacing forum or in the help section on this site.
I did take it pretty easy in the race and it was perfect all the way to the end and I got the win! Thanks so much for all you do! Hi guys. There's approximately 2. To balance this car, we could do several things: 1. Move the dynamic width of the MC to 2 inches left of centerline. With these changes, the two suspension systems are now much closer to being balanced. The car will turn much better and we can use more crossweight percentage that will load the LR tire, which will promote better bite off the corners.
As with the dirt stock clip car, this setup is a tight one. Because of the high g-forces encountered on asphalt, the front and rear roll angles are more than 3 degrees different, resulting in a very unbalanced setup. To balance this car, we could make these changes: 1. Raise the Panhard bar to Move the dynamic MC to 3.
This improves the camber change on the RF wheel and makes the front end more efficient to work harder to turn the car. These changes will make both ends of this car perfectly balanced, and the performance will be consistently fast because both ends are now working together.
With the low g-forces, small moment arm caused by the MC being located too far to the right of centerline, and the stiff front springs, this car is both unbalanced and much too stiff for dirt racing. We can make changes similar to what we did to the stock clip dirt Late Model, which are:. Move the dynamic MC width to - 4. We have also increased the rear spring split, which gives us much more bite off the corners. The asphalt Modified experiences more g-forces, not only from the improved grip that the asphalt gives, but also because of the degree banking of the racetrack and low center of gravity of these cars.
Nonetheless, this setup is also very unbalanced. There is about a 2-degree difference in how far each suspension wants to roll with the rear out-rolling the front. Here is what we might change to correct the setup:. Raise the Panhard bar rear MC to: Move the dynamic MC width to 6. With these changes, the car is now balanced with both ends suspension systems wanting to do the exact same thing in the turns. This car will now turn well, drive through the middle faster, and exit the corner much faster.
This car is set up based on recommendations published by leading dirt Late Model builders about five years ago. Since that time, most dirt Late Model manufacturers have changed their view of a starting setup. Most now publish starting front spring rates that show the LF stiffer than the RF spring.
This reverse split helps the car on turn entry. The older "base" setup makes the cars way too tight. Many times, the driver would need to throw the car sideways in order to have any chance at all of setting up a good line for coming off the corner. We always try to move the upper mounts of the springs on a four-bar car out toward the wheels as much as possible to widen the rear spring base and help control the excess rear roll tendencies that these cars have.
We can make the following changes to help the car turn better and make it more neutral in the middle of the turns so we don't have to be nearly as sideways:. Raise the right side J-bar to Move the dynamic MC to - 4. The plan for setting up all dirt cars is to narrow the gap between roll angles, front and rear, but not necessarily match them exactly like we do on asphalt cars.
This method provides enough front grip so the car will turn well, but will still allow adequate rear bite so the car has enough rear grip to get off the corners. On tracks where there is plenty of moisture and the grip level is high, we can set up the dirt Late Model more like an asphalt car with even spring rates in the rear and a higher average J-bar. The World and the Dream dirt Late Model races run at Eldora Ohio Speedway were won during the last five years using setups with even springs in the front and rear.
One car had a pair of pound springs in the front and the equivalent of pound springs in the rear this was a swing arm car with pound rear springs mounted on the trailing arm--the motion ratio causing the car to feel about half the installed spring rate. This car has a front MC that is too far to the right of centerline for a flat asphalt track, stiff front springs, and the rear spring split is too much.
The roll angles are 1. This car might be fast for a few laps, but in the long run, the lap times will fall off quite a bit. These changes will balance the car while still providing sufficient bite off those flat corners. A high crossweight percent range works best to help with exit performance. Raise the Panhard bar to: 9. Move the dynamic MC width to the left to end up at 4. Use a high crossweight range more equal to the left side weight percentage.
The reverse spring split on the front helps the car on entry to the corners. If we were to run a stiffer RF spring than the LF, the car would begin to roll to the left on braking into the corners because of the softer LF spring. As the car continues to drive farther into the turns, the front must reverse and roll to the right. This gives the driver a very uncomfortable feeling that can best be described as a "flip-flop" sensation. When we change to running a stiffer LF spring, as we brake into the corner the car will begin to roll the same direction we normally would see at mid-turn.
The transition is smooth and the driver will have more confidence on entry. The rear spring split with the softer RR spring helps promote traction in the rear by loading the crossweight percent as weight is transferred to the rear upon acceleration. Usually a or pound split is sufficient to provide the desired effect where a split of 25 or more pounds is often too much.
On a solid-axle rear suspension like we use in stock cars, the wider the spring base farther apart the rear springs , the more resistance to roll the car will have at the rear suspension. To balance this type of car versus a stock type of Late Model, we need to run a lower rear MC which produces a longer rear moment arm to compensate for the wider spring base. The front MC change moving the MC to the left makes the front suspension "feel" softer and more efficient and want to roll to a greater roll angle to exactly match the rear suspension desired roll angle.
Example Seven--asphalt touring Late Model on a high-banked track. Many teams who run the flatter tracks mostly will try to set up their cars the same way when at the higher-banked racetracks.
The higher banking produces much more downforce, and the arrangement of springs that works best on the flatter tracks won't work well on the high banking.
The higher the banking, the worse it gets. Rear spring split with the LR stiffer than the RR cannot be used because the higher g-forces cause more downforce and magnify the effects of the spring split. This makes the cars very unbalanced. At the high-banked racetracks, we experience more chassis dive and less chassis roll.
Excess camber change is a result, but less detrimental to traction because of the high amount of downforce and increased traction caused by more force being exerted on each of the four tires. Here are the changes we would make to the setup to balance the car for a degree track:.
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